Nothing beats walking barefoot on a perfectly mowed, beautifully soft, vibrant green lawn.

Achieving a perfect lawn can become an obsession. It's one of those hobbies that starts as an interest and then gradually takes up more time and, of course, equipment.

But don't worry, keeping a lawn looking good doesn't mean you have to invest in a tractor-type mower costing thousands of pounds or find your spare time is taken up removing tiny weeds by hand. There will be a bit of initial effort, but after that the maintenance can be minimal and straightforward.

First of all decide on the right lawn for the space. If you have a huge garden you will want a heavy-duty lawn that's resilient to wear and tear and can be roughly mowed every couple of weeks during the main lawn-growing time of the year, in spring and summer.

If you have a small, more delicate garden you can go for something finer. If you have a lot of wear from pets and children again you will probably want something hardwearing. The perfect lawn for your purposes can be tailored to your needs by choosing the correct mixture of grasses.

The first job will be to prepare your soil. You can start doing this in March. This may mean adjusting the existing soil to make sure you have enough drainage. Find out what soil you have and make sure if a layer of topsoil has been added to existing soil that it is even. Pay attention to trees and shrubs in the borders. If they cast a shadow over the lawn during daylight hours your lawn will be patchy in these areas.

Make sure the area for your lawn is even otherwise you will find rain accumulates at the end of a slope, which will also caused patchy (as well as muddy) spots.

There are two choices when it comes to starting a new lawn or renovating an old one - turf or seed.

The advantage of turf is that it is instant. Garden centres or companies that supply turf will be able to offer a range of grasses to suit your garden. Make sure you order it in advance (if it is to be a special mix) in order to be able to lay it at the correct time of year. Expect to pay up to £3 per metre for top-quality turf, which should include delivery. Turf can be laid at any time but it is best to lay it between autumn and spring (March).

If you plan to lay it yourself make sure you have a long, wide wooden plank of wood to enable you to avoid walking directly on the grass and to be able to spread your weight. Once you have laid the turf use the plank to make sure the turf is firm and close to the soil so it makes good contact with the earth. Lay each piece of turf as closely as you can making sure there are no gaps. Water it well and evenly when it is first laid.

A bit more effort at the time, but labour saving in the long run is to surround the border of your lawn with edging. This can be wood, brick or even something like railway sleepers. It will make it much easier to mow and you won't have to cut the lawn edge. Don't use gravel; it will pay havoc with your lawnmower blades.

The second option, using seed, is much more cost effective although more time consuming. Prepare the soil for sowing in March and sow between April until autumn (although not in hot summer months).

If you get the right seed mixture for your location the lawn will end up strong and just as good looking as turf. Again soil preparation is the most important part. Make sure the soil is well-raked so the soil is fine and even. Before planting walk over the area to press it down thoroughly. Check recommendations as to how much seed to spread per square metre and sow in both directions to make it even.

Sow a small area at a time and try to sow the seeds evenly. You can put plastic netting over the freshly sown lawn to stop birds eating the seed. Make sure the new lawn is kept moist and water whenever necessary. Try to sow in a moderate climate such as spring or autumn.

You can grow grass throughout most of the spring and summer but if it is hot the new seeds could be scorched by the sun so early spring is best as it gives the lawn time to germinate and grow strong for the longest period of time.

Once your lawn is up and running it will need regular mowing. At first keep the mower blades high. If you cut it too short the sun will dry out the roots. It will also need regular mowing and feeding.

Once the lawn is established you will need to mow it every week to 10 days during the start of spring, the prime growing time. As the summer gets underway this will be reduced to once every couple of weeks unless there is consistently hot and wet weather.

If it is dry make sure you water the lawn regularly. Invest in a sprinkler such as a "lawn queen" which you can move around to make sure you water the entire lawn. Brown patches are the result of dry under-watered lawns. Don't mow your lawn when it is wet.

Coarser lawns are generally less maintenance and easier to keep. But if you want the satisfaction of a bowling green you will need to sow a fine seed and water and mow it regularly. You will also need to remove any weeds from the roots, especially persistent weeds such as dandelions.

Another lawn enemy is moss. Sometimes this can be removed simply by raking. But if it is more persistent it may need several treatments.

During the winter make sure you do not walk on the lawn after a frost. You could find your footsteps will remain throughout most of the summer. Do not sow seeds or turf during the winter. This is when the lawn rests until the following spring. Also make sure you remove leaves from the lawn otherwise they will leave yellow patches.

A new lawn is very rewarding. If you have taken the seed option you will see results in about 10 days and from then on the shoots sprout quickly.

It won't be long before you can loll on the grass and enjoy the best of a summer's evening.