Whatever the style of your home and garden or your budget, there's a deck to suit

These days, grass just doesn_t cut it - no self-respecting garden is without a deck. Warmer, more versatile and easier to lay than patios, decks are a great way to create an architectural feature in your garden that still blends in harmoniously with nature.

Most decking is made from pressure-treated softwood (or hardwood) and should last for more than 25 years with regular cleaning and treating. It comes in all shapes and sizes, from square boards to long planks. The surface can be plain, grooved or ribbed, and in various patterns so, particularly with squares, you can make any number of designs.

You can, of course, build decks inexpensively from scratch and, at the other extreme, employ a company to design, build and install a bespoke deck to your specifications. As with so many things, you get what you pay for. Cheaper deck boards are unlikely to stand the test of time as well as more expensive ones - the Timber Decking Association (TDA) has a quality-assurance scheme called DeckMark, so look out for that when buying.

Some boards available in DIY stores are rather thin and lightweight, which is fine for building a path or stepping stones in the garden, but less suitable for a decking structure that_s going to take a lot of weight. One of the hazards of decking is how slippery it can get, especially if moss is growing on it, and if it_s near something like a paddling pool, it will stay slippery.

One solution, though not the most attractive, is secure chicken wire over the boards for a non-slip surface - a good idea if you have kids. Another is to buy grooved boards, ensuring you keep the grooves free of debris, and lay them so they face in different directions. When laying decking, it_s important to leave a gap between the boards of around 5-6mm to allow for swelling and shrinking. If you want to stain your boards, which helps preserve their life even if they_ve been pressure treated, either use a natural wood stain or one of the more funky colours now available.

Apply in the direction of the grain as many times as the manufacturer recommends. A water- repellent coating is also a good idea (see care tips box). The great thing about decking is that it can be built over an existing patio or concrete area that has become unsightly. It can also be raised up to join different levels of your garden and is especially good if the ground is sloping. It can even give a flat garden more interest by introducing different levels and is ideal for roof gardens because it_s not too heavy.

Decking is traditionally raised and the reason is that the more space there is between it and the ground, the less surface moisture can affect the wood. Another advantage of decking is that you can build features into it, such as banisters, pergolas and seating, as well as plants and trees. Simply cut holes in the boards and plant through them for a maintenance-free way of gardening which brings the deck to life.

Planted containers and unusual features, from pebbles to a hot tub, also look great. It_s a very boring deck that_s simply a square of wood - the more plants and other features it contains the better. These help it integrate with your garden and give it a more organic shape. And if you don_t build seating into it, place portable tables and chairs on top, either in a similar wood shade or a bright colour. This is a safer way of introducing funky colours into the garden - it_s a brave soul who paints their deck lilac and is sure they won_t live to regret it.

Classic or contemporary, high or low, round or square, your deck will give you years of pleasure for very little effort and upkeep - what more could you want?

(box) Decking Checklist
Follow these pointers from the Timber Decking Association (www.tda.org.uk):

1. Competent DIYers can lay basic decking but you should employ an expert for more complex structures.

2. If a professional is building your deck, ensure their work is covered by an independent, insurance-backed warranty.

3. Look out for DeckMark, a nationally accredited quality-assurance scheme from the TDA.

4. Planning permission is not generally required for a deck, but there are exceptions so check with your local council first.

5. The best decks are constructed from either hardwood or pressure-treated softwood.

6. Be armed with the right tools before you begin: a power saw that can cut at least 2_-thick timbers, a long spirit level, a power drill/screwdriver, a carpenter_s saw, a hammer, and protective gear.

7. The easiest way to deal with an unsightly patio is to cover it with a new deck.

8. Don_t lay your deck directly onto grass. Remove the turf, cover the ground with black polythene or another membrane and add gravel on top.

9. It_s vital that the supporting posts and joints are rigid and that there_s a slight slope away to help surface water run-off. Lay the decking with a gap of around 6mm between each board, providing ventilation and room for them to expand and contract.

10. Stain/protect boards before you install them so you don_t miss any bits. Pay particular attention to where the wood has been cut - brush all cut ends, notches and drill holes with an end-grain preservative.


(box) Deck care

* DeckMark-approved timber will resist decay almost indefinitely, but a water-repellent coating will help stop cracking - apply every other year at the end of summer.

* How often you restain the deck depends on its location and the amount of sun it gets, etc. Ensure it_s completely dry first.

* Brush or spray clean your deck at least once a year, preferably in spring. Stubborn stains should be treated with fungicide. While cleaning, check for damage and make any necessary repairs.

(box) Where to site your deck

* Consider how you_ll use it - as a place to have barbecues, sunbathe, admire the garden, or for the kids to play.

* Establish which parts of your garden get the sun and when. Either you_ll want to take advantage of the sun for as long as possible or site the deck in a shady spot. Also take into account the prevailing winds.

* You might want the deck to be the garden_s main feature or for it to highlight another feature or even the house itself. This affects its position, how you arrange the boards (you can angle them in a certain direction to help guide the eye) and whether the deck is joined to the house or freestanding.

Project - Making a deck
Only basic carpentry skills are needed to build a basic deck. Follow these instructions from Wickes to make a square deck about 3 x 2.5m (for more information, see Wickes_s Good Idea Leaflet 15).

You will need:
7 x 3m bearers (80mm x 80mm)
16 x 2.4m x 140mm deck boards
160 x 65mm no.8 exterior wood screws
20 x 150mm exterior nails

1. Plan your deck on paper first and buy the timbers at least a week beforehand so they have time to acclimatise to where you_re laying them. If the site is sloping, part of the deck will have to be supported on timbers set into concrete in holes in the ground - the deck level should not be more than 600mm above ground level. Do not build it in a very wet area, but you can build it on a bed of pea shingle (25mm deep) if the ground is soggy.

If the ground_s slightly uneven, level it off and ensure it_s firm (take care not to damage underground pipes or drainage). And if the area_s grassy or weedy, remove the turf, then cover with black polythene and gravel.

2. Mark out the deck using pegs and string following your plan. Make the outer frame first then mark, cut and fit the intermediate bearers with a maximum 500mm spacing limit. Wear gloves to avoid splinters and a mask and goggles when using power tools. At each join use two of the nails, and treat each cut end and hole with end-grain preservative. As you go along, ensure the frame remains flat, square and totally supported. If you find hollows under it or places where it_s off the ground, adjust the ground level to prevent the deck being ‘springy’.

3. Lay the boards in the opposite direction to the bearers and secure (two screws per board to each bearer) with 5mm gaps between each board. Position the screws about 15mm in from the edge of the boards. The boards can either be cut to the size of the frame or fitted oversized and trimmed down later.