Table Talk: The Landau

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The Landau

Cuisine: French

Location: 1c Portland Place, Regent Street, London W1B 1JA

Phone: 020 7965 0165

Website: www.thelandau.com

An atmospherically-lit hallway – the wine corridor – welcomes guests, while at the same time showcasing the calibre of wine hand-selected by connoisseur and sommelier, Zack Saghir. The restaurant itself is no less of a treasure trove with antique brass chandeliers and lanterns inspired by Chinese bells hanging from the ceiling, which are a beautiful, alternative take on decorations for this time of year. The room’s curvature – also restructured to achieve precision – provides elegant dining proportions, and there is ample space for large parties as well as small nooks for private dinners. To sample a full spectrum of delights on offer from both the kitchen and cellar, the tasting menu provides a tour of delicate crudités, homemade broths, trolleys groaning with cheeses and petits fours like jewels. The dainty herb flavour of the thyme gnocchi complemented by the roast-chestnut broth, was ideal for the time of year. Scallops with spiced red pepper, fennel and aubergine will surpass any you’ve ever tasted, while the squid and john dory offered a meatier pescetarian alternative to the quail and venison normally on the menu. Every wine really complemented particular aspects of each course’s flavour, as Saghir brimmed with excitement at being able to transform the diner’s palate again and again. A great place for a Christmas party with friends.

This article was first published in at home with James Martin in December 2011. [Read the digital edition here]